1. Anywhere silent and foreign to a person tends to be ominous at 5 a.m. Mining villages ever the more so, given the off-cast, icy lighting of processing plants set across desolate, empty landscapes. So even without its recent, violent history, Marikana would be a strange place to roll into during the thick, pre-dawn darkness.

    During August of last year, miners at the Lonmin platinum mines in Marikana began a strike, asking for higher wages. Accounts differ, and the  official inquiry isn’t set to produce a report until October, so I’ll do my best to avoid making any unbacked statements. In short: the attempts at negotiating were a failure, violence occurred, 44 people died in the ensuing confrontations (mostly miners, though several police and security officers were also killed).

    June 17, about 10 months after the majority of the killings (34 people were killed on August 16), marked the end of the mourning period for the families of the dead. A cleansing ceremony was held at Marikana for the families of the deceased. We drove out from Johannesburg in the early hours of the morning (or the late hours of the night, depending on your predilection). When we arrived it was clear that the event was not going to be intimate: a large tent and small stage had been set up for visitors, with loose tape strung between posts to indicate parking areas for VIPs and media. Although originally scheduled to begin around 5:30 a.m., the ceremonies didn’t actually begin until well after 8 a.m.

    The orchestration of the event aside, it was still a heady experience. Whatever the official account of last year’s events turn out to be, it’s difficult (dare I say impossible) to disregard that amount of trauma, sadness, grieving. From my own experience, it’s always a bizarre balancing act of both accepting and blocking the feeling of empathy that wells up in your stomach when confronted by that much emotion. If you get caught up in the emotion. then you won’t shoot, you won’t think, you won’t function. If you hold out the emotion entirely, then the photos will be stale and detached.

    To be clinical, I would say it’s all about finding an inner balance, of being objective and focused. To be honest, I would say it’s just really damn hard.

    Photos taken on assignment for the Mail & Guardian.

     

  2. The road from Pretoria.

     


  3. “For when it happens.”

    All the newspapers have had cover stories about Nelson Mandela’s health in the past two days. That pretty clearly dictates what my week is going to look like. My gut says that nothing’s going to happen, but my gut is kind of an idiot.

    It’s strange for everyone to be talking about something that no one is willing to say. “Voldemort” translated into the real world. “When Mandela dies.” Everyone is expecting it to happen sooner rather than later, and I hear faint murmurs involving prepping for the obituary package. “I have a great portrait for when it happens.” Faces are always a bit grim.

    There are other discussions that I’ve heard, firsthand and second. Stories of Afrikaners who worry that South Africa will pull a Zim when Mandela passes. Taxi drivers expressing support for the DA (the main opposition party). Little things that might speak to a big shift in the political landscape post-Mandela. Maybe. Maybe not. That’s another discussion in itself.

    For now, information is scarce. It sounds like Mandela is stable. That’s just that, for now. Tomorrow is tomorrow.

     


  4. Noted: Reporting in Joburg without a car is a pain in the ass.

    And getting a driver’s license reissued from the California DMV while in Joburg is also a pain in the ass.

    Tuesday. Waiting for Tuesday.

     

  5. laughingsquid:

    Coffee

    My new “regular” order.

     

  6. The Maboneng Night Market in Johannesburg, featuring eclectic sculptures, artisan food vendors and craft beer.

    This is a very different Johannesburg than what I saw four years ago (“just passing through”). A big part of that - for me - is the gentrification occurring in the Maboneng Precinct, where I’m staying. There’s actually a fair amount of animosity targeted at the district, and the most common word I’ve heard to describe it is “hipster.” It seems like a rather accurate term, actually: a few blocks in downtown Johannesburg being converted into high-priced (for the city) apartments and studios, complete with precision-crafted lattes and a small indy-film cinema. Just across the street from the sushi/fusion restaurant and the reclaimed furniture outlet are shebeens (unregulated bars, common to the townships) and fire pits surrounded by homeless workers. Just a day earlier I was out covering the eviction of squatters from a derelict building only ten minutes away by foot. The next night I’m watching young bank managers and professors sip microbrews while listening to Foster the People.

    I’m not sure if I’m for or against any of this, and I can’t pretend to know whether the general area actually benefits or suffers from the encroachment of businesses targeted at a higher income bracket. Sure, “gentrification=bad” and all that, but the city has been largely abandoned by Johannesburg’s white population, and this could be a forbearer of a turnaround.

    Basically, it’s Bushwick. You be the judge.

     

  7. Squatters in a dilapidated building on Davies Street, in Johannesburg CBD. (Photo on assignment for the Mail & Guardian)

     

  8. Let there be light. (at CUNY Graduate School of Journalism)

     

  9. Baggage. #NYC #subway #intransit

     

  10. #Coffee gone. (at Irving Farm Coffee Company)